More fun on Tanna - Part V

As you can tell, Tanna has been a freaky and magical experience - a big playground for adults and kids alike. Pure and unsanitized. Where 35 years ago they might eat visitors like us, or at least neighbors from the village across the way, but only if it was a big feast day for a special treat. They supposedly don't do that any more but it still is a raw, elemental place which just happens to have nice people in it.

Yesterday was a rest day. There seems to be a limit to how much we can handle emotionally and physically and this place just drains you. But the adventure had to continue..... Last night was local band night at the yacht club above the dinghy landing. Nothing special - just the boys from the village would come by and us yachties could have a BBQ and some beers at the club. You could order dinner there or cook or bring your own. So some people brought stuff to show off and others, like us, brought simple but good food to share. We heard that the band would eat too if we brought enough so we brought extra.

All the yachts were there plus two couples from the bungalows. One of the couples there were having their own freak out because the French husband had developed a bad fever and was too weak to get up or eat. His wife was really worried - no doctors for 130 miles. He was on antibiotics and anti-inflammatories but she had run out of the ibuprofen and was worried he might not make it until the morning when they were flying out to Port Vila. This was potentially very serious. He showed up later and looked run down but was much better so I hope they made it out today on their flight OK. I told them to go to the doctor regardless. He has not been here long enough to have malaria but it could be something else serious.

But that did not stop the party. We all sat down to our meals and passed around dishes even for those that did not bring anything, and a bit later with the boys from the band. The band was a ragtag group of young men and boys. No amps, no microphones. The bass was a big plywood box with a stick on a string nailed to the center of the top. The stick was propped up on the corner of the box top and leaned over until the string was tight and then plucked. It actually sounded pretty good. There were a few guitars and a homemade ukelele. It certainly did not look like much but wow! they really put on a good old-fashioned show. Very low key but they mixed up the tunes. No one was a standout singer or lead. They all sang each song, all local songs that they wrote. They obviously loved to get together and especially to show off and entertain palanges like us.

Many of the kids from the village came around and stayed outside of the open air room and danced in the light that filtered out. The rest of us danced or sat around and listened and tapped our toes inside. The ladies that cook and run the restaurant danced and danced. Cindy and I danced and she danced with the others. It was not really couples so much as a group dance. At first it seemed to start slow but got going and built up and built up until you could almost see the electric sparks in the air from the good vibes that were flowing around. We had a great time. The basket was passed around for the band and I hope all were generous. The boys certainly had a good time and were appreciated by all. The kids dancing had a great time too. Another magical experience out here and all part of why this has been the best so far.

A little tidbit - James Michener started writing his famous "Tales of the South Pacific" while stationed in the Army in Vanuatu during WWII. That's probably one reason I had such high expectations for the rest of the South Pacific before that could not be met. Don't get me wrong, French Polynesia (especially the Tuamotos), Tonga and Fiji were great, but Vanuatu is by far, with only one island to judge by, the best.

Tomorrow we leave for Port Vila on the island of Efate about 130nm north from here. This is a real city and one in which the white folks (the French and English) would not let the dark people in to until very recently. So back to the ugly part of the world. I think it is better now but will be light years from here.

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