Maggie Drum at Gau Island, Fiji

Dateline: 2 July 2007, Gau Island - just east of Viti Levu

We are sitting pretty at anchor in a gorgeous bay on/at Gau Island. This is supposed to be the real traditional Fiji, which will be nice after the modern (relatively) hustle-bustle of Suva. The passage was miserable though to get here. We had to motor the whole way (45 miles) in to the wind (15-20kt apparent) with big swells and some chop. Ranger and we were hobby-horsing like crazy the whole way. The bow would go up out of the air, then crash down in to the sea with a big spray coming over the boat. Sometimes the bow would come down right in to the next wave and the whole boat would shutter and bang. It is very hard on the boat and very hard on your nerves. It also puts lots of hours on the motor and uses very expensive fuel (over $5/gal). We probably used about 30 gallons of fuel to get here. We had the mainsail up but all it did was flutter and snap.

But, we are here. We had to go through another, smaller, barrier reef though, and this time without any marks to guide you. You had to creep up on where you thought the reef started and look to see if you could see any changes in color to indicate shallows. And of course, the sun went behind the stormy clouds, so you could not see the water color (it all looked black). Kind of nerve wracking. We must have found the passage though as we are anchored safe and sound on a rocky coral bottom with some sand. Coral is not good to anchor in as the anchor may not set well, or, it sets too well and you can't get it up. Of course it was windy and gusty all night and when you are anchored in coral the chain drags and makes rumbling noises in the boat and when the wind gusts the chain goes tight and makes a banging in the boat. And you all thought this was just fun and games out here?

It is pretty though - a deserted bay with a small patch of beach and palm trees and jungle starting right after that in to the steep and rugged green hills. There is a village around the corner. We need to go there today, dressed in long pants and dresses to meet with the chief. (I am not making this up!). We have to make sevusevu with the chief to ask his permission to anchor and visit the island. No permission - no stay. You have to take a gift with you as part of the very traditional ceremony. You are invited in to the chief's house, take off your shoes, sit in a circle and present your gift. The gift is "kava". Kava is available in the states now and is a member of the pepper plant family. It grows in bushes on many islands out here. The kava twigs and roots you present (a bundle of about 2/3 of a pound) are ground up, water added and then all of it strained though a cloth or traditionally though coconut fiber into a bowl. The muddy looking result is drank in a traditional fashion using coconut hulls (or human skulls in the old days) with one cup passed around to each person in turn. It produces a mild narcotic effect - the lips go numb first and every one gets very mellow. No fights when every one is stoned on kava.

We have not tried it yet and probably will not be asked to at the chief's house. He will take the kava and offer us the protection of the village and his permission for us to visit. He takes the kava twigs and roots and does them later in the day after work. Some times you are offered to stay and enjoy but it is not a given. The kava is supposed to take like old dishwater, and it looks the same. Not pleasant. I suppose we will try it some time but not sure when. So, I am up watching the sun come up (the anchor and wind got me up at 12, 3 and 5) and will try to send this off before the net starts at 7am.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com