From Tahuata to Hiva Oa then off

We have had some hectic days lately. From our anchorage on Tahuata island
at Hanavave, where we saw fantastic spinning dolphins jump straight out of
the water and spin several times before coming down, we wet up to Hana Moe
Noi with its beautiful white sand beach and crystal clear waters. I
couldn't sleep very well that night and we got up way early and started for
Hiva Oa again where the Gendermes insisted we had to go to "check out" of
the southern Marquesas islands.

The seven mile voyage from there to Atuona was a nightmare. The seas were
ten feet, on the nose of course, with 20-25 knot winds, also on the nose, of
course. The whole boat was covered in salt water again but what else is
new. We had been very happy to have the fresh water rain take most of the
salt off from the passage, and now we want more rain. But, we got there
around 8:00am local time where we found the small harbor completely full of
boats anchored so close to each other with bow and stern anchors that you
could spit from boat to boat. We found a small place in the back of the
"bay" with only 7 feet of water (we draw 5.5') and rowed into town to "check
out". We got there by 9:00 and it took about 2 minutes to write our name
down in the log. We then took off to get a few veggies from the veggie
truck, got a nice piece of yellow-fin tuna from the fish truck, and then
went to the largest grocery store, which is like a large 7-11 to get other
things. We had a $28 lunch (beef curry, cheese burger with fries, and a
coke) and got back to the boat by noon.

By this time the depth sounder was reading only 5' and we were still
floating which means my depth sounder is not very well calibrated, but at
least we were still floating. We pulled in both anchors and got out of
Dodge. We back-tracked through the Bordelais Channel were the winds and
seas were against us and found both the wind and the seas had flattened out
now that we were not beating in to them. But, we had a great sail through
the now pretty channel accompanied by the best dolphins we have seen on
Maggie Drum. They weren't jumping or anything, just cruising along with us
at 4 knots and playing bump and run with each other. The water was very
clear and we watched them for so long on the bow that we could identify each
individual by the spots and marks on their backs. Kewl!

We got around the corner of Hiva Oa, headed north. We had to decide whether
to go up to an anchorage on the northwest side of the island or to keep
going to Nuka Hiva, and we decided to go for Nuka Hiva just as the sun was
going down. It was another 75nm there anyway so we just went for the
overnighter to get it out of the way. Neither of us were able to sleep on
just the one nighter. We got there too fast and before the sun came up just
as a big monster pleasure boat (about 120') came up behind us for the same
destination. We got in to the beautiful harbor of Taoihae Bay and cruised
around the harbor checking out the other boats there for friends and just
for fun. The anchor was going down just as the sun was coming over the rim
of the ancient volcanic caldera several thousand feet up. We were tired and
napped until noon. Then we got the dink down, went to shore and walked the
whole length of the waterfront to a hotel/restaurant on the opposite side of
the bay overlooking the harbor and had a wine and beer (only $11). Some
friends got two six-packs of Hinano beer and it cost $39. They were 500ml
cans but still!!

We need to get diesel here and get some welding done on the wind pilot and
may be get a pizza in town before we go on. It only sprinkled here
yesterday but other cruisers who have been here a while said that it had
rained for two weeks straight, so life is smiling on us. It is gorgeous
here and even though it is the most developed town in the Marquesas, still
not very developed because it is so hard to get here. Less than 3000 people
live on the entire island. Off to the Gendermerie to check in and try to
get some fresh baquettes (they sell out by 10am everyday).