Calm at last - Lamen Bay - Epi Island - Sept 13th

It has been way too windy here, off and on, for the last several weeks. It finally slowed down enough for us to get out of Port Vila (at last) and we went up to Havannah Harbor and had several good days there where it was well protected. We got a favorable forecast and took off to go north for a one day sail to Emae Island with its roadstead anchorage. A roadstead, for you less nautical folks, is an anchorage that is open to the sea. It may be a little indented to give some protection, but normally a roadstead only really protects you from one 180 degree direction, which worked out fine for the one night we were there. It turned out to be very rolly though and we had to find a patch of sand amongst the coral to drop the hook. We did a pretty good job in 40ft of water but the chain still draped a bit over some coral, which we hate. It can damage the coral and it makes the chain growl which will wake you up or keep you from sleeping at all. So we got up the next day (two days ago) and took off for our real destination of Lamen Bay on Epi Island, only 32nm farther north.

We had a fantastic sail in brisk winds just off our stern quarter, so not right on the stern. When we started out the seas were mellow but built and built in the 20kt winds, which then went to 25kt and the seas got bigger. A strong current against the wind made some steeper seas but we sailed along just fine and then got in the partial lee of the island. We thought the wind would die but it didn't but the seas just flattened out and we cooked along at 8kt in flat seas - great!

Lamen Bay is postcard picture perfect. There is a black volcanic sand beach at the head of the small bay with coral (white) sand on one side in the corner. The jungle comes down from the hills right to the beach as usual and there is a prominent hill on one point to the south. Lamen Island sits about a mile out from the bay and there is fringing coral around everywhere. There are villages at the head of the bay and on the island, but the one on the island is the larger (for protection during the cannibal days) but the gardens for both villages are on the main island. So the gardeners paddle across in their outrigger dugout canoes daily to come tend to the gardens and pick up the produce. When the winds are right they use cut down palm fronds as sails to push themselves across. Right out of the "South Pacific". The little "resort" on the beach is very rustic but cute and not very busy. Right now there is a smallish charter fishing boat from Port Vila with some Kiwi quests staying there and catching tons of fish every day. Even yesterday.

Yesterday was a day from wet hell! It blew really hard and strong most of the day, but off and on. And it rained the same way. We actually got in a long walk in the village and along the beach and then got soaked on the way back. We were worried about getting back it was blowing so hard but getting off the hard black sand beach was easy with our dinghy wheels which we learned to use in Mexico. The boat has been damp inside and the cockpit completely drenched with the wild winds. Some of our canvas got torn in the winds. We turned on the wind gauge and saw 30kt winds part of the time and steady 20's. One boat drug anchor (in front of us) and had to reset closer in to the shore. During all this three small freighters came in and came through the anchorage very close to us and the other boats. It was too rough to let off and pick up their small lighters (small flat bottomed cargo carriers with outboards) and get cargo off to take to the beach so they had to come in closer. A little too close to our liking but everything was fine. These guys have to do some amazing things getting cargo on and off beaches and are used to dealing with high winds, big seas and a bunch of dumb yachties in the way.

We booked for the small restaurant for the night and lucked out with the wind and rain as it died down and then quit as we got in the dink to go ashore. The restaurant actually has a concrete floor and some real walls but no screens. The women and men working there are very friendly and the food was excellent. It was a buffet and we had beef curry, fried fish, salads, bok choy, taro, and some sweet potato fritters which were to die for. Everyone had seconds of these fritters. There was an island version of a lemon-meringue pie for desert, which was almost a thick cake crust and small layer of filling with a big meringue top. All very nice and about $10US. Tusker beer was available or you could bring your own so we did both. White Swan and Kuna joined us and we had a great time watching an amazing sunset going on behind the still major clouds.

Today it is partially sunny and the wind has died down. We are planning on going for a little nature tour later this morning. A local takes you on a short hike and points out the plants they use for medicine and other uses. You end up at a little hut they have built on the top of a ridge with spectacular views, so it is good that the sun is out today. Our next island will be Ambryn which has another active volcano, this one still running lava and sending up clouds of ash. It is supposed to be the most magic of all the islands here with the most powerful sorcerers anywhere there. We'll see.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see:

http://www.sailmail.com