Wednesday, May 10, 2006

Nuka Hiva

We have been having trouble getting and staying connected on the SSB radio
for emails and blog updates so everything has been delayed. The anchorages
we are in are ringed by high and steep volcanic ridges between us and
Honolulu in Hawaii which is the closest radio station for email. That is
still over 2200 miles away. So, I am going to try to send this via the very
SLOW internet connection at the yacht agency on shore here at Taoihae Bay on
Nuka Hiva.

Cindy fell off the dink while trying to tie us up to the quay a couple of
days ago. It was low tide and even at high tide, the top of the quay is a
climb up. The surge got her leg tangled with another line from a boat while
the dink went away from the wall and over she went, getting her leg caught
in a line going down, which wrenched her leg/knee. She is now the official
gimp on the boat, wearing a brace, taking pain killers and generally being a
pain in the rear (not). She will be OK but the leg is sore. You have to be
very careful out here.

This Saturday was a special day on the island, and in the Marquesas. They
inducted a new priest, the first one who is a native Marquesan, at the local
Catholic cathedral. We went to see and it was full of pomp and circumstance
with beautiful singing by the congregation. Most of the island was there in
their best church clothes (island shirts, pants or shorts and sandals for
the men and mostly white, simple and fancy at the same time). Flowers were
everywhere including on heads and behind ears. We will try to send some
pictures. Many of the older women were crying. The bishop (not sure where
from) was there for the all afternoon and night festivities after the church
service. The singing was incredible. The Mormon Tabernacle choir could not
have done better.

On a sourer note, we found some cracked welds on our Monitor wind vane which
is an autopilot to steer the boat with using wind direction. We like it
because it is powered by the wind and does not use electricity but had to
decommission it on the voyage over from Mexico as previously noted. We took
it off (BIG job at anchor in a rolly bay) and took it in to the agency who
knew a local welder. He took it off to his shop after the agency could not
reach us on the radio (wrong frequency) to tell us the cost. Well, he
wanted $350 to do a 15 minute job and I told them we would not be aiding and
abettig highway robbery. We know things are more expensive but in Mexico it
would have cost $20-50 max and in the states may be $100 max so we will get
it back today and get it done down the road (hopefully for cheaper). Partly
it is the principle of the thing. I would have paid half the quote and felt
like it was way too high, but oh well....life in the islands.

Today we hope to get ready to leave tomorrow for other anchorages on Nuka
Hiva where it won't be so rolly (or rainy). We need to get some diesel
which either requires a Med-tie (anchor off the dock and back in and then
tie up the stern off the dock and pass a long hose over) or lugging jerry
jugs, which is what we are going to do. We need 78 gallons for full but
will get 40 and call it good. That still leaves us with about 160 gallons
which is three times what a lot of other boats can carry. We are sailing
more now but it is insurance.

The Tuamotos are the next island group and they are over 600nm away and very
remote with few services so we will stock up with food today as well. I am
getting a little bored at times so will have to get on some other boat
projects to break up the reading I am doing. Currently I am reading a
biography on Ben Franklin who was an interesting and brilliant rouge to say
the least.